The Antarctic Peninsula is where most expeditions
begin, with mountains rising straight from the water, glaciers
calving with cracks that echo across bays and icebergs drifting
past in shapes that defy logic. Landings happen daily when weather
allows, with Zodiac transfers taking you ashore to walk among
chinstrap, Adélie and gentoo penguins that show
no fear of humans. Research stations cling to rocky outcrops,
remnants of the Heroic Age of exploration mark historic sites and
leopard seals hunt in the shallows while Weddell seals bask on the
ice.
South Georgia delivers wildlife on a scale that
changes your sense of what is possible, with king penguin colonies
at St Andrews Bay numbering in the hundreds of thousands and
elephant seals and fur seals adding to the mass of life that covers
every beach. The abandoned whaling stations at Grytviken stand as
monuments to a different era, with Shackleton's grave facing the
mountains he crossed to reach safety. The Falklands bring you back to human scale, with
Stanley's red post boxes, stone churches and the Historic Dockyard
Museum documenting the 1982 conflict with quiet authority.
The Ross Sea represents Antarctica at its most remote, with
voyages departing from New Zealand to follow Scott, Shackleton and
Mawson into regions where expedition ships rarely venture. Historic
huts stand perfectly preserved with tins still stacked on shelves
and boots by the door, while emperor penguin colonies gather on
ice, thousands of birds moving as one against wind that never
stops. The Weddell Sea offers the rarest prize of all in
Snow Hill Island, home to emperor penguins with
their chicks, though landings are never guaranteed and reaching it
requires ice-capable ships, helicopters or icebreaking power.