Travel Advice
Travel Advice
I was lucky enough to embark on an incredible journey to Antarctica, a destination I reached after crossing the Drake Passage and one that is so remote it felt like I'd stepped onto a planet from a science fiction film. The scenery was overwhelmingly beautiful and every preconceived highlight was surpassed. Penguins, albatross, whales, hunting leopard seals and incredible stories from a heroic age combined to create a once in a lifetime experience. Here is all you need to know about crossing the Drake Passage...
As with all remote places, the journey to get there is long, and my particular journey involved a two day crossing of the Drake Passage, twice. Named after the famed British privateer Sir Francis Drake, it's the area of the Southern Ocean between the tip of South America and the Antarctic Peninsula, the most northerly part of the White Continent.
With no land mass to interrupt the eastward advance of the powerful Antarctic Circumpolar Current the seas in this area can be large and have earned a fearsome reputation. As a first time visitor I was a little nervous about the crossing, as were my fellow travellers, so for those who are considering an Antarctic adventure there are a few things you might want to know and consider...
Usually a two-day journey, although quicker in good weather, the Drake Passage can range from incredibly calm (imagine being gently lulled to sleep) to, well, a lot worse. Swells from one metre to between seven and eight, plus wind speed and direction all have an effect. To get an idea what you're up against check out PassageWeather.com to see the current, although changeable, forecast. The site is used by most Antarctic operators, and if you look during our winter months (November to March) you'll see what you might be up against.
A swell of three-four metres is enough to cause discomfort for some, but to ensure a quick crossing operators will do what they can to route around very rough seas, and you'll always be briefed on board by the Expedition Team so you'll know what to expect.
Rooms further away from the ship's centre will feel more movement so if you can, stay mid-ship. Looking at the horizon will also help so do consider a room with window (or even better a suite with a balcony) instead of a porthole grade room, typically the lowest grade, especially as in particularly large swells it may be necessary to close the porthole cover.
A very small number of ships even have sea views from their en-suites, especially handy in high seas.
Some people cope with sea sickness better than others but I recommend you have some form of medication with you just in case. There are patches and tablets, each with pros and cons. Popular on my voyage was a patch placed behind the ear which lasts up to three days and is apparently less likely to cause drowsiness than tablets. You however may prefer to take tablets and rest up through the crossing.
Ginger is also said to help (tea is good, or even biscuits!) and some recommend acupressure wrist bands. To complicate matters, most medications work better when taken prior to the onset of symptoms, but my blanket advice is take tablets with you and if you start to feel ill take them and sleep as much as you can. Of course, please get advice from your doctor or pharmacist first before you leave.
A larger ship is more stable and in some instances can be quicker, making the Drake Passage crossing more comfortable. However, landings sites in Antarctica are restricted to 100 people ashore at any one time and to allow for this larger ships have to stagger landing groups, and will sometimes stay longer at one site, where a smaller ship might be able to offer up to two different landing sites a day.
Many do so without any problems but they are less able to navigate narrow channels and access smaller bays. Your choice of ship (and operator) will also affect the inclusions, activities and level of comfort so it's worth a lengthy discussion with us so we can recommend the right ship for you.
In recent years there have been a number of new ships built specifically for expedition cruises. Much care has been taken over the design of these vessels and the comfort they offer guests when embarking on crossing such as the Drake Passage.
AE Expeditions, Quark Expeditions and Lindblad Expeditions all have ships with an X-BOW design which helps reduce slamming in heavy seas and speeds the journey so uncomfortable rides are minimised, whilst new ships from Scenic, Seabourn and Silversea have been designed with large stabilisers (underwater wings) that can be deployed when needed.
If you're really worried, or indeed pressed for time, there is the option to fly across the Drake Passage to King George Island. Several operators offer this option either one way or both joining a ship already located on the Antarctic Peninsula.
You'll skip the crossing but lose the time on board - and bragging rights! The flight is also subject to weather conditions delays of a day or more are not uncommon.
If the crossing is rough and your room becomes your sanctuary make sure you're happy there. I was saved by a movie on demand system which provided blissful distraction so do check if this, or an alternative, is available.
Finally, your trip will end with a return crossing so do some pre-packing in case the journey gets rough - you'll be grateful later. Of course, you might enjoy a gentle voyage watching albatross gliding around the back of the ship or attending lectures on the destination. No matter what the weather it is absolutely worth the journey, and remember, if it was easy, everyone would do it!
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