This is a sea-facing land. The mountainous terrain makes travel
inland tricky, so settlements, villages and towns have always been
linked up by sea. Norwegians are seafarers to their core and
arriving by water gives you an insight into the lives of these
communities that road travel simply cannot match.
In the western fjords, the scale takes a while to register.
Geirangerfjord, Nærøyfjord, Sognefjord, walls of rock rising
hundreds of metres straight out of glassy water, waterfalls that
look small until you realise the ship has been sailing past one for
ten minutes. Small towns like Flåm, Ålesund and Bergen mark the
entry points, with art nouveau architecture, fish markets and the
smell of cold air off the water.
Move north and the coast becomes wilder. The Lofoten Islands
hang off the mainland in a jagged line of red fishermen's cabins,
drying cod racks and granite peaks. Tromsø sits well inside the
Arctic Circle, a working city that becomes the base for winter
Northern Lights cruises Norway is best known for. North Cape
expedition cruises push to the top of mainland Europe, where the
land simply runs out at a cliff above the Barents Sea.
Wildlife is constant if you watch for it. Sea eagles, puffins on
the cliffs in summer, orcas and humpbacks in the colder months,
reindeer along the headlands.