The Upper Amazon near Iquitos delivers the richest wildlife
encounters, with water levels fluctuating by up to 30 feet between
seasons and transforming the entire ecosystem. Small river vessels
navigate narrow tributaries where the canopy closes overhead and
bird calls echo across the water. Daily excursions on open skiffs
bring you face to face with three-toed sloths moving through the
trees, pink river dolphins surfacing in channels, giant otters
hunting fish and caimans lurking in the shallows. Macaws fly overhead in pairs, their scarlet and
blue plumage visible against the green canopy, while hoatzins,
jabiru storks and toucans add to the constant activity.
Local communities live along the riverbanks in stilted houses
that rise and fall with the water, growing crops in areas that
flood completely during high water season. Fishermen bring in
piranhas, catfish and the occasional giant arapaima, while children
play football on sandbanks that disappear when the rains come. The
forest itself feels alive at all hours, with howler monkeys
announcing dawn, insects maintaining a constant hum through the day
and nocturnal creatures emerging after dark when spotlights reveal
eyes glowing along the banks.
Ocean-going expedition ships undertake an altogether different
journey, sailing the entire length of the Amazon from the Atlantic
to Iquitos over 18-22 nights. These voyages pass through Manaus,
where the Rio Negro meets the Amazon in a visible line of black and
brown water that refuses to mix for miles. The river here is wide
and commercial, with cargo ships, fishing boats and ferries sharing
the channel. As ships continue upriver past Manaus, the channel
narrows, settlements become sparser and the forest presses closer.
This is an extraordinary feat of navigation, with captains reading
the river for shifting sandbanks and channels that change with
every season.