Trip Reports
In the depths of northern Peru lies a little-known and even lesser-travelled wilderness, reserved for intrepid travellers seeking a truly special experience. Luxury adventure specialists Aqua Expeditions have been exploring the Peruvian Amazon and its tributaries for nearly two decades and if your next adventure is calling, an Amazon cruise should make its way to the top of your travel list. Here's my review of my Amazon River cruise on board Aqua Nera...
Aqua Nera is Aqua Expeditions' second ship in the region, carrying a maximum of 40 guests in 20 stylish suites. The ship provides a comfortable and modern base from which to explore as you sail between Iquitos and Nauta, visiting local communities, venturing into the rainforest, and of course wildlife spotting along the way.
My adventure began in Iquitos, the largest city in the world only accessible by river and by air, and from the plane window I got a glimpse of the winding river as it snaked through the landscape with rainforest as far as the eye could see.
The water level of the Amazon and its tributaries here can fluctuate by around 30 feet between the wet and dry seasons, and from a viewpoint in the city our Aqua Expeditions guide explained the section of river we could see would be completely dry in the low water season, with the locals growing crops such as cucumber and watermelon, and children playing football in the area currently submerged. The impact of the fluctuating water levels was evident as we visited villages in the region, with most of the buildings elevated on stilts. The rivers are the lifeblood of Iquitos and the surrounding villages, with food and supplies coming in by boat, and freshwater fish a key food source.
I boarded Aqua Nera in the afternoon, warmly welcomed by the friendly crew, and settled into my spacious suite complete with a king-sized bed facing a huge floor to ceiling window, perfect for waking up and enjoying the changing views. I sailed the three-night itinerary, giving two full days of exploration, and the programme was enriching and varied, with plenty of surprises along the way.
Each day consisted of several outings, mostly on small open boats, known as skiffs, which carried a maximum of ten guests each with one accompanying guide. These highly manoeuvrable open-air boats could access narrow channels and get close to the riverbank enabling us to scout for wildlife, plus zipping along the river was an exciting adventure in itself!
On our first full day we started with a 6am outing on the skiff, looking out for birds which are active in the early morning and listening to the vibrant sounds of the Amazon dawn chorus. Following the hour-long taste of things to come, we returned to Aqua Nera where breakfast was served on deck. In fact, whilst the guests are off exploring in the skiffs, Aqua Nera continues to sail so when it's time to head back, the ship is close by waiting for our return.
Following breakfast, it was time to head out once more for two hours of wildlife spotting. On this occasion we really were spoiled with yet more birdlife, including a hawk feasting on a kill and a pair of feisty birds protecting their nest, giant lily pads complete with a flower which only blooms for 36 hours, an interaction with a local who had caught a baby anaconda trying to have his chickens for lunch, and two sloths high in the trees, one carrying a baby! We returned to the ship exhilarated by our special experience which was enriched by the eagle eye and endless knowledge of our guide.
It's not just about wildlife however, back on board we were treated to a demo and tasting of a pisco based cocktail from the resident bartender, plus the chef showed us how to make local specialty patarashca, which is local catfish steamed in a bijao leaf. The afternoon brought more adventures with a talk about the communities living along the river followed by an evening jungle walk and time spent scouting for nocturnal wildlife including caiman, bats, and tarantulas. Our guide also stopped the skiff so we could appreciate the almost deafening sound of the 'jungle symphony' of frogs, insects and birds.
Each outing was filled with anticipation, and I could have spent every day repeating the same routine but for our second day we enjoyed a completely different programme. The jet lag worked in my favour as each day I was up with the lark and today I woke to sunrise over a peaceful lagoon so I headed up on deck to soak in the surroundings and was treated to a show from a pod of playful dolphins right next to Aqua Nera.
We then headed out and the crew had gone to a huge effort creating a complete breakfast tray for everyone to enjoy on board the skiff, with avocado and eggs, fresh fruit, coffee, juice and more and we enjoyed delicious meal in the rainforest. It's difficult to choose just one highlight of the trip but this experience was certainly up there!
Fuelled for the day we headed into the lagoon where we tried our hand at piranha fishing. Our guide explained that catching fish is more difficult in the high-water season and with a rudimentary kit of a hook, line and wooden pole, I wasn't expecting much success but to my delight after several false starts (and shrieking on my part) I was the first to catch a fish - a red bellied piranha.
Following that excitement we then headed ashore to visit a nearby village where we were kindly welcomed into a family home and the local school to see a glimpse into everyday life here. Some of the locals also treated us to a relaxing ride in a canoe to soak in the sights and sounds of the lagoon, and some brave guests also took a refreshing dip.
After lunch on board, we ventured out on our final skiff excursion of the trip, and once again we were fortunate to see dolphins including the Amazon river dolphin, a unique species endemic to South America with the males displaying a pink colour.
The crew had also organised a special surprise at the fast-flowing confluence, where all the guests in their respective skiffs gathered to enjoy an Amazon aperitivo hour with cocktails and perfectly presented snacks. Together we raised a toast to a wonderful adventure with so many memorable moments in just a few days, this was truly the experience of a lifetime.
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