The Sea of Cortez feels like wilderness that happens to sit 2
hours from Los Angeles. Baja California's desert coast runs for hundreds
of miles, red rock cliffs dropping straight into turquoise water,
tiny fishing villages appearing where freshwater seeps meet the
sea. Cardón cacti grow taller than houses, their arms reaching
skyward from rocky slopes. After rare rains, the desert explodes
with flowers that carpet the ground in yellow, pink and purple. At
night, stars fill the sky with no competition from city lights, and
the only sounds are waves against the hull and the distant bark of
sea lions.
Gray whales arrive in Magdalena Bay between
January and March to calve, with mothers and curious young
approaching boats close enough to touch. The encounters are
consistent and intimate, with whales breaching, spy-hopping and
rolling alongside pangas in water so calm you can hear them
breathe. Blue whales, the largest animals ever to exist, feed near
Loreto in February and March, their massive forms surfacing to blow
jets of spray visible for miles. Humpback whales patrol throughout
the season, while fin whales, sperm whales and occasionally orcas
pass through these rich feeding grounds.
Dolphins travel in pods that number in the
thousands, with common dolphins and bottlenose dolphins both
abundant. They ride bow waves, leap in synchronized arcs and
sometimes hunt together, driving fish into tightening circles while
seabirds dive from above. Mobula rays gather in mass formations,
leaping clear of the water in displays that leave the surface
churning with splashes. Whale sharks drift through plankton blooms,
their spotted backs just below the surface as they filter-feed with
mouths agape.
Los Islotes delivers the signature Sea of Cortez experience:
swimming with sea lion pups in clear water surrounded by rocky
pinnacles. The young ones are curious and playful, spinning past
your mask, nibbling fins and performing barrel rolls. Adult males
bark from rocks above while females patrol deeper water. Snorkeling
here reveals schools of king angelfish, porcupinefish hiding in
crevices, moray eels and octopuses changing colour against the
rocks.