In the 1970s the archipelago was inscribed as one of the first UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and there was a tenfold increase in the number of tourist vessels. Flights from the mainland became more frequent, and a growing economy began to attract investment from both mainland Ecuador and overseas. Between 1979 and 1989 visitor numbers almost quadrupled, and land-based tourism began to develop, serviced by a growing number of hotels and restaurants.
In 1993, authorities responded by increasing the Galapagos National Park entry fee for foreign tourists to US$100. In 1998, the main islands gained access to 24-hour electricity, followed in 2000 by telephone and internet connections, allowing businesses to take bookings directly.
Tourist arrivals surpassed 100,000 for the first time in 2004, and Galapagos was placed on UNESCO's 'World Heritage in Danger' list between 2007 and 2010.
Fast-forward to the present day and UNESCO is once again sounding the alarm. Last year, an astonishing 329,475 people visited Galapagos, a new record, and some projections suggest that we are on track for a million visitors a year by 2041.
So how did we get here? The 'Special Law for Galapagos', passed in 1998, included provisions to limit the number of tourists visiting by ship, with a hard ceiling on cruise berths that has been in place ever since. However, no such cap exists for hotel beds, and the situation has been exacerbated by the growth of platforms such as Airbnb.
But it's not as simple as 'cruise tourism good, land tourism bad'. Cruises typically serve wealthier international travellers, with prices that are out of reach for most Ecuadorians, and there is a perception that the economic benefits don't reach the community; local businesses instead rely on backpackers and Ecuadorian visitors for their income.
How do we move to a model that is regenerative, restoring nature while also providing sustainable livelihoods?
These are not easy questions, but a broad coalition of organisations and local stakeholders, including Galapagos Conservation Trust, is working on solutions. In August this year, National Park entry fees for foreign tourists doubled, the first increase since 1993.
This will help fund conservation and local infrastructure, though the fees are still modest compared to destinations such as the Serengeti or the Maasai Mara.
There are other ways that tourists can help. Firstly, please don't bring any singleuse plastic, and take your rubbish home where possible. Secondly, adhere to the National Park's guidelines, keeping your distance from wildlife and sticking to marked trails. Thirdly, support the local community.
Seek out the local artisans making souvenirs from recycled materials, rather than buying plastic tat made in China. And lastly, when you return home, no doubt moved by what you've seen, please consider joining Galapagos Conservation Trust as a member. A regular gift will help us to protect Galapagos for future generations to enjoy, and you will be joining a wonderful community of people who have been touched by this very special place.
Mundy Adventures are proud sponsors and co-hosts of the Galapagos Conservation Trust's Galapagos Day 2024, which will be held on 10th October at 6.30pm, 1 Wimpole Street, London, W1G 0AE. For more information and to book tickets please call 020 7399 7630.
