Travelling with Quark Expeditions, who include a compulsory transfer package with a one-night pre-cruise stay in Oslo and then a charter flight solely for their ship's guests to and from the ship in Svalbard, began with flying out early from London, allowing you to visit the stunning city of Oslo for the afternoon, easily reached by train from the airport hotel. After an early alarm and check-in for the Quark charter flight to Longyearbyen, it was a further three hours' flying time from Oslo (the first realisation of just how far north they would travel!).
Arrival at the very small airport building in Longyearbyen was easy and the group were whisked straight off to the ship, close enough that it was actually visible from the runway. The first experience of the Arctic wind built more excitement about what the next five nights would hold for everyone on board Quark's newest expedition ship, Ultramarine.
Ultramarine launched in 2021 and has been purpose-built for the polar regions, offering real comfort while exploring these remote wilderness areas. She can carry up to 199 guests, ensuring that an intimate and in-depth experience is had by all, and offers a range of staterooms and suites which include popular sole occupancy single bed cabins.
Once on board everyone took some time to navigate around, from the Ready Room on Deck 2 to the expansive views from the Panorama Lounge on Deck 7. It was very easy to find your way around and nothing was too far away, a benefit of the small ship experience.
They were kitted out with included Quark Expeditions parka jackets and loaned boots ready for the first adventure the next morning, but immediately after the first evening meal, discovered they would not have to wait that long!
A discreet and quiet communication was made on board to announce the presence of a polar bear strolling on the ice to the forward of the ship! A dash for jackets and cameras was followed by an hour of just observing this magnificent animal, which set the tone for the next few days. It was easy to forget the time, as the midnight sun can really disorientate at times.
Over the course of the five-day voyage the group were incredibly lucky to spot nine polar bears (after being told this was rare, so appreciating their good luck) along with sightings of Arctic walrus on a couple of occasions, and their relative the bearded sea lion. The group also saw many different species of bird, although sadly were a little too early for the returning puffins in mid-May.
The wildlife was viewed from the many vantage points of this very well-designed ship, with plenty of space for every guest to find a spot to stand and admire. Ultramarine boats the latest dynamic positioning technology, ensuring she can offer stable and reactive positioning to enhance your experience, and this avoids having to use the anchor and damaging the sea floor.
With any polar expedition cruise it is important to understand the need for flexibility in your itinerary. The weather can change quickly, and the cruise lines have to react where needed. During time on board this sailing, the suggested next day landing sites were changed on a couple of occasions due to sea ice conditions or wind, but this was never an issue, and some of the wildlife witnessed was thanks to these last-minute changes!
The season for the Arctic runs from May to September. For cleaner snow and more visible sea ice the earlier the better; if you want to experience the pretty flora and easier hiking, then later in June/July would be best. Most full circumnavigation cruises of Svalbard will be mid- to late summer when the northern sea ice has receded, making for a clearer passage around the north of the islands.
Something we are always asked about by our clients travelling to the polar regions is what to wear. The simple answer is layers; you need to be comfortable, and being able to remove layers is essential, especially when you're on a guided walk or hiking at a landing site. A good base layer, then a fleece layer followed by your parka double layer jacket will keep you nice and warm. Good gloves are also very important, and they must be waterproof and windproof too. A good warm hat and reflective sunglasses should also be on your packing list!
Finally we have to mention the 'Polar Plunge'. This is not for everyone, but in our opinion it's a must-do while on any polar expedition. Overcoming all fears to make the jump from the pontoon on the aft of the ship into the chilly Arctic waters, you'll be welcomed back on board with a warming shot of vodka and round of applause from all around, a real team effort.
The Arctic is great for either a first timer to expedition cruising or those who have experienced it before and want to see the magical polar bears in their natural habitat. It's likely that this is already on your bucket list, so make sure it is one of the next things to be ticked off!
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