Quark Expeditions review: Ultramarine in the Arctic

Longyearbyen is home to several fascinating attractions, including the Svalbard Museum, which offers a wonderful insight into the history, culture, and wildlife of the archipelago. It is also the gateway to the Svalbard Global Seed Vault, a remarkable facility that provides long-term storage for duplicate seed samples from gene banks around the world, helping preserve global crop diversity for future generations. And, of course, there is the Husky Café. If you like the idea of interacting with huskies, this is an absolute must-visit. The dogs are incredibly friendly and full of character, making it a delightful experience and one of the highlights of any visit to Longyearbyen.

After a few hours exploring Longyearbyen, it was time to transfer to the impressive Ultramarine, where the excitement built as we made our way to the ship. On the journey, we spotted several reindeer grazing peacefully, giving us a wonderful glimpse of Arctic life and making us even more excited for the adventures that lay ahead.

Upon arrival, we were warmly greeted by the Expedition Leader and welcomed on board with a selection of refreshments. After check-in, we were escorted to our balcony cabin on Deck 6, where our luggage had already been delivered and was waiting for us. It was an impressive start to our voyage and a reflection of the excellent organisation and service provided by the crew.

Ultramarine has two main dining venues on board. The Balena Restaurant serves buffet-style breakfast and lunch, and an à la carte dinner with a varied menu and excellent service. There is also the Bistro, which offers a more casual indoor and outdoor dining experience, perfect for enjoying a meal or snack while taking in the spectacular Arctic scenery.

The Panorama Lounge acted as the ship's main social hub. It quickly became one of our favourite places on board. Whether you fancy a tea, coffee, gin and tonic, or a whisky, it can be enjoyed on comfortable seating with panoramic views. It was the perfect place to relax and watch the Arctic landscape drift by, and I found it remarkably easy to spend hours there, completely absorbed by the scenery and almost forgetting that, in Svalbard during the summer months, the sun never sets.

On our first morning on board, I made my way to the gym, which was exceptionally well-equipped and had everything I needed for a workout. There was even a separate studio dedicated to yoga, offering some of the most spectacular views imaginable. Exercising while looking out across the Arctic landscape was a truly memorable experience and a wonderful way to start the day.

Our first Zodiac cruise headed towards Alkefjellet, and the excitement of the whole group was high as we approached this dramatic cliff face. Rising abruptly from the sea, the towering basalt pillars at Alkefjellet are home to tens of thousands of Brünnich's guillemots, an iconic Arctic seabird species that nests shoulder to shoulder along narrow ledges. The sheer density of life was almost overwhelming - sound echoing off the rock, and the air filled with constant movement as birds commute between nest and sea. It was truly mesmerising to witness such a spectacle,

Once back on board, we were treated to what has to be one of the best buffet lunches I have ever indulged in. The selection was endless, and the daily special - a Malaysian laksa - was as authentic as I remembered from Malaysia, full of flavour and beautifully prepared. Then, with some free time before the Captain's welcome, it was a perfect opportunity to head to the spa, which remains one of my favourite places to relax on board. The Tundra Spa features a spacious sauna infused with eucalyptus aromas and panoramic views - simply stunning. There is also a separate steam room, along with a range of treatments available to choose from.

The wildlife encounters throughout the trip were nothing short of incredible. We explored Sarstangen, a beautiful sandy beach where walruses are often seen gathered in large groups, huddled closely together, and where we were lucky enough to witness them in their natural habitat and were treated to watching them play in the water - an absolutely magical experience.

One evening, while we were enjoying another excellent meal, we were rather spectacularly interrupted by a polar bear, who had clearly just settled down to enjoy his own dinner nearby. We quickly made our way out onto the deck in an orderly fashion, doing our best to remain as quiet as possible despite the excitement. This was one of many polar bear encounters we experienced. We were able to observe him for hours as he fed on a seal, and I was glad not to have witnessed the hunt itself.

The active trip included varied landings, and I particularly enjoyed a gentle hike in Faksevågen, where I had ample time to sit and reflect on the stunning surroundings. Taking in the crisp, unpolluted air while soaking up the breathtaking views was simply mind-blowing.

After each outing, we were back on board for another fabulous meal to help recharge, and the head chef could often be seen around the restaurant, personally checking in to ensure everyone was happy, and we could only sing his praises. The expedition team was also marvellous throughout, and a personal highlight for me was taking part in the polar plunge.

I am so pleased to have returned to this magical destination and am surprised by just how different the experience was compared to my first trip, with different landing sites, different wildlife, and a different expedition team who bring their own experience, making the destination even more special.